Create your own compost bin (also suitable for HDB)

***Click here to watch our first video on creating your own compost bin for under $20

Admittedly, this homemade compost bin was a result of a research we were carrying out for a separate project. Since, we ended up collecting a good amount of unwanted raw food scraps, we thought, ‘why not recycle?’

Hence we got together a few essential items:

2 semi-transparent plastic containers ($11.90 each)

2 semi-transparent large-medium containers with lids – each costs $11.90 (diameter 32.5cm, height 40.5cm). There are other similar-sized containers that come at a cheaper price, but Joe and I like the quality and look of these.

Do note that the size of the container really depends on how much raw food scraps you generate from food preparation everyday. If you have a big family that often cooks, it is better for you to get a larger container. The opposite is true for a small family or a family that rarely cooks.

The semi-translucent containers also allow us to roughly gauge the composting activity inside. It could also help us see how fast the container is filling up. Next, we got two containers for a good reason – when one is about 3/4 full, we could set it aside for about 3 to 6 months to compost completely while the second one will be used to contain new food scraps. By the time the second one is filled, the first container’s compost would have been ready to use (hopefully!)

Make sure to get containers with secure lids to prevent rodents, critters or stray animals from getting in! However, we found a better and less hassle-free method with hay. For more information, click here.

Holes drilled at the bottom of each container

Also notice how we had drilled holes at the bottom of each container. Don’t have a drill or don’t know how to use one? Don’t worry, many containers already come with porous bottoms. You may even buy a rectangular container without a base and simply cover it with cardboard or old newspapers. (Remember to cut some holes in them!)

Holes at the bottom of your compost bin allow excess liquids to drain off, as a very wet mixture would result in an anaerobic and smelly product. You wouldn’t want to annoy yourself or your neighbours!

Garden soil ($2)

We also got a few packets of garden soil at $2 each. This is important to include as a starter in your compost pile as it has important microorganisms to break down your food scraps. However, if you already own potted plants at home, you can simply use soil from there. Alternatively, ask if your neighbour might kindly offer you some.

(Note: It is better to use actual compost as a starter! But if you do not have any on hand, coffee grounds are highly recommended. Otherwise, you can use soil like we did.)

Garden spade ($3)

A garden spade ($3) to transfer soil, food scraps and other materials to the container and mixing them.

Pandan leaf plant ($5)

Pandan leaf plant ($5) – my father requested that we buy this as well, for he wanted to add more variety to his current food crop collection. He now grows his own potted limes and curry leaves for cooking and they all need very low maintenance.

Note: We got all the materials at a few simple houseware shops at our neighbourhood in Bukit Batok East. I’m sure you could easily find these items in any neighbourhoods that are near hawker centres, bakeries etc.

Steps to prepare your own compost bin:

My dad's row of food crops just at our doorstep. We set the compost bin at the end.

My family lives in a HDB flat (second floor), corner unit. We allocated a space at the end of our row of plants just outside our door. We then set the container on that spot, making sure it was just above the drain area (refer to picture below). This allows any excess liquid to flow straight into the drain. You could also set your container steadily above two bricks or stones to enable free-flow aeration below your container.

Compost bin set above the draining area

We then collected some ‘browns’ (they are essentially biodegradable carbon materials) from inside the house. They included: cardboard boxes, tissue boxes, cereal boxes, A4 matt printer paper, and spam mailbox letters (non-glossy). We also went downstairs to collect fallen leaves. A mere 10 minutes of collecting yielded us a large bag of them!

A

A 'brown' - newspapers

A 'brown' - empty toilet rolls

A 'brown' - fallen leaves

For a more complete list of ‘browns’ that are good for composting, click here.

We laid newspapers (it is better to shred them first!) at the bottom of the container. Then, we added about 1 inch of garden soil on top of the papers, and then added shredded and crumpled up ‘browns’ on top of the soil layer (about 2 to 3 inches in height). Do remember to shred or tear your cardboard/cereal/tissue boxes to slightly smaller sizes, if not your compost container would fill up in no time!

If you’re wondering what the bottom garden soil was for: it was to act as a ‘sponge’ to soak up any excess moisture from the pile, and to provide microorganisms that help to start the composting process. Adding shredded, crumpled or bulky ‘browns’ allows air to be trapped in the compost pile. This facilitates aerobic (oxygen) composting which is good for the pile. Aerobic composting also helps to prevent bad smells and speeds up decomposition.

After that, we added raw uncooked food scraps (also called ‘greens’) on top of the resulting mixture. The food scraps contained carrot peels, sweet potato peels, crushed egg shells, spinach stems and leaves, garlic husks, onion husks, rotten portions of onions, and cabbage stems. For a more comprehensive list of ‘greens’ that you can add to your pile, click here.

Remember not to add in any cooked food! These give off really bad smells and attract rodents, thus raw and uncooked food scraps are the safest bet. For a list of stuff you should not add into the pile, click here.

Do remember to cut or chop your ‘greens’ to about 2-inch by 2-inch size. This allows microorganisms to break them down faster.

WRONG size! Too large

CORRECT size - about 2 inches all sides

Next, we added in another few scoops of garden soil, and mixed it with the food scraps. This was to cover the food scraps with the microorganisms found in the soil to aid in decomposition. You may even mix with the ‘browns’ you added in earlier to trap air between the food scraps.

However, try not to disrupt the bottom later of garden soil that was added near the beginning.

Then, we covered the resulting mixture with plenty of ‘browns’ (newspapers and fallen leaves in this case) to prevent odours. Thus, it acted as a natural biodegradable covering from the system. Hay would be a much better cover material though. It has been able to completely prevent odours and pests so far

You may follow our composting updates (using hay) here.

Top view of the pile - covered with fallen leaves (a type of 'brown')

Cross-section view of pile

Lastly, cover the container with a secure lid to prevent rodents, critters, pests and stray animals from getting in. Also, ensure that the floor is free from any kind of spillage, and that the outside of the container is clean and dry. Otherwise, pests will come running as well.

Some important side notes: good compost should be damp, not dry or dripping wet. Dry compost essentially means that it is not decomposing at all, whilst dripping wet compost ends up anaerobic and smelly. Do remember to add some moisture (water) if you add more food scraps later on, and mix in more soil and ‘browns’! For more detailed guidelines on how to add more materials to your pile later on, click here.

The final product - looks good, clean and pleasant!

Finally, presenting our nice, clean, neat (and colourful) homemade compost bin! It is highly advisable to prop your compost bin off the ground using bricks/stones/boxes etc as this would improve aeration in your compost bin. Click here to see how we did it.

We’re superbly proud of how this turned out and we can’t wait to check back on the bin about a week later! Nevertheless, there is no harm checking on your bin everyday, as lifting the lid off the bin will allow some air to re-enter the container for an aerobic (oxygenated) system – this prevents foul smells that usually result from an anaerobic system.

For a completely hassle-free and yet well aerated compost bin, we highly recommend you to use hay. For more information, click here.

Meanwhile, it would be good to note that the mixture takes about 3 to 6 months to finish decomposing into good compost. (It would take much longer for cooler or temperate climates!) Remember to maintain your compost with moisture and air if you are adding more food scraps on top, and check it daily for odours and pests.

So far, it has been an interesting, enjoyable and exciting experience for us. Even one of my siblings was eager to help collect leaves from downstairs, while my dad enjoyed drilling holes into the containers!

For chronological updates on our very own apartment compost bins, click here.

For more information on maintaining your compost pile and other composting-related guidelines, visit our ‘Compost!’ page.

We will also be coming up with an easy-to-use troubleshooting site for people who are already composting food scraps at home. Check back soon for more updates!